Hawaii swimmers warned about going in water as waves reach up to 14 feet
National Weather Service (NWS) meteorologists in Hawaii issued a high surf advisory on Friday, warning swimmers of dangerous waters.
The advisory is in place for all east-facing Hawaii shores through Saturday night, including Olomana, Maui Windward West, Kauai East, Koolau Windward, Molokai Southeast, Windward Haleakala, Big Island East and Big Island North as a “moderate to large, medium period” swell produces advisory-level surf.
“The surf is expected to peak this afternoon into the evening, then slowly decline through the weekend,” the advisory said.
A swell is a series of waves produced by storm winds.
NWS meteorologist Dennis Trotter told Newsweek that it’s typical for Hawaii’s waves to heighten while transitioning into the winter season.
The swell is not associated with Hurricane Kristy, a Category 3 storm with maximum sustained winds of 115 mph in the eastern Pacific. Trotter said, however, that there could be a bump in wave heights early next week due to Kristy, although it’s too soon to tell if it will affect Hawaii.
The National Hurricane Center (NHC) anticipates that Kristy will exhibit “steady to rapid weakening” over the next few days. Earlier this week, the storm underwent rapid intensification and quickly became a major hurricane. On Thursday night, Kristy was a Category 5—the most powerful storm on the planet.
The NHC forecast anticipates that Kristy will become a post-tropical cyclone on Sunday. The storm isn’t expected to make landfall, but it will likely cause dangerous swells in other parts of the region.
“Swells generated by Kristy are affecting portions of the west coast of the Baja California peninsula and will likely continue to impact the region through the weekend,” the forecast said. “These swells are likely to cause life-threatening surf and rip current conditions. Please consult [warnings and alerts] from your local weather office.”
In addition to the high surf advisory, meteorologists also issued a marine weather statement for windward waters of Maui County and Big Island on Friday morning.
“A medium period 6 to 8 foot NNE swell from 010 to 030 degrees will quickly fill in today and peak this afternoon through the evening,” the statement said. “This swell could produce surges in north facing harbors, mainly Hilo and Kahului Harbors. Mariners using these harbors should exercise caution when entering or leaving port and when mooring or launching vessels.”
A marine weather statement also has been issued for waters near Southern California, as dense fog was forecast to affect the coast of Los Angeles and Orange counties, the Santa Barbara Channel and “coastal waters from around Point Conception southward through the southern outer waters” through Saturday morning.